Brief
Although Laos is a small country, because of the lack of infrastructure it pays to be under-ambitious with travel plans. Don’t try to see too much in too little time. In Laos no transport keeps back-to-back schedules common to most other parts of Asia. A three-hour bus trip can easily turn into a 12-hour one. Many visitors begin their journey in Vientiane. Depending on how much time you have, you might want to see other parts of the country before exploring Vientiane. That way you’ll have more time upcountry in the ‘real’ Laos.
|Basics|Pre-departure Planning|
|Medical & Health Considerations|Planning|Legal Matters|Activities|
Basics
Airport Security
Only the Vientiane and Luang Prabang airports use X-ray machines, so use protective procedures (e.g. lead-lined bags, hand inspection) if you’re worried about X-ray damage to film.
Time
Laos, like Thailand, is seven hours ahead of GMT. Thus, noon in Vientiane is 10pm the previous day in San Francisco, lam in New York, 5am in London, 1pm in Perth and 3pm in Sydney.
Electricity
The LPDR uses 220V AC circuitry, most commonly featuring two-prong sockets. Bring adaptors and transformers for any appliances you’re carrying. Adaptors for the common European plugs are available at shops in Vientiane. In smaller towns electricity may be available only three or four hours per night. In many villages there is no power whatsoever. Blackouts are common during the rainy season, so it’s a good idea to bring a torch (flashlight).
Weights
The international metric system is the official system for weights and measures in the LPDR. Shops, markets and highway signs for the most part conform to the system. In the countryside distances are occasionally quoted in meun; one meun is equivalent to 12km. Gold and silver are sometimes weighed in baht; one baht is 15g.
Toilets
In Laos, the ‘squat toilet’ is the norm except in hotels
and guesthouses geared towards tourists and international business travelers.
Instead of trying to approximate a chair or stool like a modern sit-down toilet,
a traditional Asian toilet sits more or less flush with the surface of the floor,
with two footpads on either side of the porcelain abyss. Public toilets are uncommon
outside hotel lobbies and airports. While you are on the road between towns and
villages, it is acceptable to go behind a tree or to use the roadside when nature
calls.
Bathing
Most hotels and guesthouses in the country do not have hot water. The majority of rural Lao bathe in rivers or streams. In towns or cities may have washrooms with a jar or cement trough is filled with water for bathing purposes. A plastic or metal bowl is used to sluice water from the jar or trough over the body. In a public place you should wear a sarong while bathing. Nude bathing is not accepted.
Food
Vegetables and fruit should be washed or peeled whenever possible. If a place looks clean and well run and the vendor looks clean and healthy, then the food is probably safe.
Water
Be careful of the water and especially ice. Reputable brands of bottled water or soft drinks are fine, generally speaking. Only use water from containers with a serrated seal - not tops or corks. The simplest way to purify water is to boil it thoroughly.
Queues
The Lao method of queuing for services is to simply push en masse towards the point of distribution. It won’t help to get angry since first-come, first-served isn’t the way things are done: It’s ‘first-seen, first-served’. Learn to play the game by pushing your money, passport, letters or whatever to the front of the crowd. Eventually you’ll get through.
Theft
The Lao are trustworthy people and theft is not much of a problem. Still, it’s best to lock your hotel room when you’re out and at night. If you ride a bus, watch your luggage and don’t keep money in your back pockets. On a bicycle or motorcycle it’s best not to place anything of value in the basket - at night duos on motorbikes have been known to snatch bags from baskets.
Drugs
Opium, heroin, marijuana and amphetamines are widely available for sale in parts of Laos. Travelers should be aware that penalties for possession of illegal drugs are very harsh.
Emergencies
The following telephone numbers should work in most areas of the country where there is telephone service:
Fire 190
Police 191
Ambulance 195
Pre-departure Planning
Immunizations
There are no vaccination requirements for Laos unless you are coming from a yellow fever infected area but the vaccinations that you should consider for this trip are: Diphtheria, Tetanus, Hepatitis A and B.
Insurance
Make sure your travel health insurance covers foreign travel.
Medical & Health Considerations
Laos has no facilities for major medical emergencies. For minor to moderate conditions, including malaria, Mahasot International Clinic (v 021-214022) in Vientiane has a good reputation. For any serious conditions, going to Thailand is the best option
ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS
Fungal infections
Fungal infections occur more commonly in hot weather and are usually found on the scalp, between the toes or fingers, in the groin and on the body (ringworm). To prevent fungal infections wear loose, comfortable clothes, avoid artificial fibres, wash frequently and dry carefully.
Heat Exhaustion
Dehydration and salt deficiency can cause heat exhaustion. Take time to acclimatize to higher temperatures, drink sufficient liquids and do not do anything too physically demanding. Salt tablets help, but adding extra salt to your food is better.
Heatstroke
This serious condition can occur if the body’s heat regulating mechanism breaks down and body temperature rises to a dangerous level. Long, periods of exposure to high temperatures and insufficient fluids can leave you vulnerable to heatstroke.
Sunburn
In the tropics, you can get sunburnt very quickly, even through clouds, particularly if near water. Use a sunscreen and hat.
INFECTIOUS DISEASES
Diarrhea
Dehydration is the main danger with diarrhea. Lomotil or Imodium can be used to bring relief from the symptoms. Some water born diseases to be aware of are Amoebic Dysentery caused by the histolytic amoeba. It will persist until treated and can recur and cause other health problems. Giardiasis is caused by a parasite, Giardia lamblia.
Hepatitis
Hepatitis is a liver disease, common worldwide. Several different viruses cause hepatitis, and they differ in the way that they are transmitted. The symptoms are similar in all forms; fever, chills, headache, fatigue, feelings of weakness and aches and pains, followed by loss of appetite, nausea, vomiting, abdominal pain, dark urine, light-coloured faeces, jaundiced (yellow) skin and yellowing of the whites of the eyes. Hepatitis A is transmitted by contaminated food and drinking water. Hepatitis B is spread through contact with infected blood, blood products or body fluids. Hepatitis C and D are spread in the same way as hepatitis B. There are vaccines against hepatitis A and B.
HIV & AIDS
Any exposure to blood, blood products or body fluids may put individuals at risk. The disease is transmitted through sexual contact or dirty needles - vaccinations, acupuncture, tattooing and body piercing and intravenous drug use. It can also be spread through infected blood transfusions. Laos remains a ‘low HIV prevalence country’, with only 1400 cases reported by the end of 1999, but it’s estimated that only about one fifth of all cases are actually reported. So far the over whelming majority of reported cases have occurred among non-IV-drug-using heterosexuals, with men and women equally affected. Lao condoms may be of lesser quality. The medical blood supply in Laos is not fully screened for HIV; if you need a transfusion the nearest safe supply is in Thailand. If you need an injection, ask to see the syringe unwrapped in front of you, or take a needle and syringe pack with you.
Intestinal Worms
Different worms have several ways of infecting people. Some may be ingested with food, including undercooked meat, and some enter through your skin. Infestations may not show up for some time, and are generally not serious but if left untreated can cause severe health problems. Check your bowl movements regularly and have a stool test when you return home.
Liver Flukes
These are tiny worms that are occasionally present in freshwater fish. The main risk comes from eating raw or undercooked fish. You should avoid eating uncooked pla daek, fermented fish used in many Lao foods, when traveling in rural Laos. Pathologists consider the overall risk of contracting liver flukes in Laos to be low. It’s often offered to guests, in which case you have to weigh carefully the possible health consequences against the risk of offending your hosts. A rarer way to contract liver flukes is by swimming in rivers. The only known area where the flukes might be contracted by swimming in contaminated waters is the Mekong River around Don Khong (Khong Island) in the far south of Laos.
Schistosomiasis (Bilharzia)
Risk for schistosomiasis is highest in the southern reaches of the Mekong River - avoid swimming in this area. This disease is carried in water by minute worms. They infect and breed in certain varieties of freshwater snails found in rivers, streams, lakes and particularly behind dams. The worm enters through the skin and attaches itself to your intestines or bladder. A general feeling of being unwell may be the first symptom, or there may be no symptoms. A blood test is the most reliable test, but not show positive results until a number of weeks after exposure.
Typhoid
Typhoid fever is a dangerous intestinal infection caused by contaminated water and food. Medical help must be sought. Early symptoms are a headache, body aches and a fever, which rises a little bit each day until it is around 40’C (104’F).
INSECT BORNE DISEASES & CRITTERS
Malaria
This serious disease is spread by mosquito bites. Resistance to antimalarials is on the increase all over Asia, and most malaria in Laos is chloroquine resistant. If medical care is not available, malaria tablets can be used for treatment.
Dengue
Unlike the malaria mosquito; the Aedes aegypti mosquito, which transmits the dengue virus, is most active during the day, and is found both in urban areas, in and around human dwellings, and rural areas. A yearly outbreak occurs in Vientiane during the early rainy season, so take special care from May to July.
Insect Bites & Stings
Bee and wasp stings are usually painful rather than dangerous. People who are allergic to them may suffer severe breathing difficulties and require urgent medical attention.
Some spiders have dangerous bites but antivenins are available. Laos harbors several species of scorpions. The venom varies in strength from individual species, but the sting is rarely dangerous to adults. Lots of palm trees around a house or hotel usually mean there’s a chance scorpions will find their way to your room. They’re nonaggressive creatures, so just keep an eye out for them.
Leeches & Ticks
Leeches may be present in damp forest conditions. Trekkers often get them on their legs or feet. Salt or a lighted cigarette end will make them fall off. An insect repellent may keep them away. Ticks can cause skin infections and other diseases. Grab the head and gently pull it off you.
Snakes
Wear boots, socks and long trousers when walking through undergrowth where snakes may be present. Don’t put your hands into holes and crevices, and be careful collecting firewood.
Planning
When to Go
The best time for visiting most of Laos is between November and February as during these months it rains the least and is not too hot. For the mountainous northern provinces, the hot season (March to May) and early rainy season, from June to July is good, as temperatures are lower at higher elevations. Extensive road travel in remote areas may be impossible during the rainy season, from July to October. River travel is an alternative during these months. If you intend to travel by river, November is the best time as river levels are high enough for maximum navigability throughout the country.
Maps
Good maps of Laos are hard to find. The most detailed maps of Laos based on Soviet satellite surveys. These topographic maps are labeled in English and French and are often seen on the walls of government offices. The National Geographic Service reprints many of these maps, and will usually sell them to foreigners in spite of the fact that most are marked Secret. Lonely Planet publishes a Thailand, Vietnam, Laos & Cambodia Road Atlas with over 100 map pages and includes topographic shading, city maps and a complete index. It is the most up-to-date road and place-naming scheme for Laos published so far. Maps can be bought at the Vientiane Book Centre, the State Book Shop, the Lane Xang Hotel and some souvenir shops along Thanon Samsenthai. They can also be purchased direct from the National Geographic Service.
Speedboats
In Northern Laos, particularly along the Nam Ou and Mekong River, light and very fast speedboats are a common form of riverine transport. However, they are not particularly safe. Accidents occur regularly, usually involving a boat striking hidden rocks or tree limbs. Because of the high speed at which these boats travel, a simple capsize may have serious consequences. The accident risk for this type of boat outweighs the savings in time they may represent. We recommend you avoid speedboat travel unless absolutely necessary.
Legal Matters
Although on paper certain rights are guaranteed, the reality is that you can be fined, detained or deported for any reason at any time, in cases involving everything from marrying a Lao national without government permission to running a business that competes too efficiently with someone who has high connections. In most cases you must truly have committed a crime to find yourself in trouble with the law. The message is clear: stay away from anything illegal, such as drug possession or prostitution. If detained, call your embassy or consulate in Laos, if there is one. A meeting between Lao officers and someone from your embassy/consulate can result in quicker adjudication and release.
Sexual Relationships
Sexual relationships between foreigners and Lao citizens not legally married, are illegal under Lao law. Permission for marriage or engagement must be submitted in an application to Lao authorities. Penalties for failing to register a relationship range from US$500 to US$5000, and possible imprisonment or deportation.
Business
Government offices are open 8am to 11.30arn or noon and from 1pm to 5pm Monday to Friday. Some offices may open for a half-day on Saturday. Shops and private businesses open and close a bit later and some stay open during lunch. On Saturday some businesses are open all day, others only half a day. Most business in Laos, except for restaurants, close on Sunday.
Activities
Cycling
The lack of vehicular traffic makes cycling attractive in Laos, although somewhat offset by the general absence of roads in the first place. For serious out-of-town cycling you’re better off bringing your own bike that’s geared to rough road conditions
In terms of road gradient, food and accommodation, the easiest long-distance ride is along Rte 13 from Luang Prabang to the Cambodian border. In the dry season this road is very dusty and trucks can be a nuisance. Other cycling routes of potential interest - all unpaved and rough but due to be upgraded over the next decade are Luang Prabang to Muang Khua; Huay Xai to Luang Nam Tha; Pakse to Attapeu; Muang Xai to Phonsavan; Muang Phu Khun to Phonsavan; and Sam Neua to Phonsavan.
Hiking & Trekking
Laos is an ideal destination for people who like to walk outdoors. All 13 provinces have plenty of hiking, although the cautious authorities remain suspicious about trips involving camping or staying in villages, but the government has recently allowed multi-day trekking projects, so the situation is changing.
Visitors trekking on their own manage to spend the night in remote villages anyway. There is no law forbidding this although it is frowned upon by the authorities in the provinces of Hua Phan, Sekong and Attapeu. Day hiking you’re free to walk almost anywhere in the country except the Saisombun Special Zone. Eastern and southern provinces should be carefully considered as there remains a great deal of unexploded ordinance.
Boating
The rivers and streams of Laos have all sorts of recreational boating possibilities, rafting, canoeing and kayaking. Little modern equipment exists, so it’s a good idea to bring your own. There are no regular bamboo raft trips as in Thailand. For trained paddlers any of the major waterways from the western slopes of the Annamite Chain to the Mekong valley could be interesting. In the north, the Nam Ou, Nam Tha, Nam Khan, Nam Ngum and of course the Mekong River are navigable year-round. In Central and Southern Laos the Nam Theun, Se Don, Se Set and Se Kong as well as the Mekong are safe bets. In the area between Vientiane and Tha Khaek, several tributaries which feed into the Mekong are smaller and less known than the aforementioned but very scenic since they run through rugged limestone country.
The area of the Mekong known as Si Phan Don (Four Thousand Islands) is easily accessible and provides superior paddling possibilities among verdant islands and rapids.
You should be prepared to face the occasional suspicious government official along the way, because you’re doing something out of the ordinary. If you go with an organised tour, you’re less likely to face problems with local officials.
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